Category: watches

The Tangled Of Lange’s ‘big Calendar’

Before Lange carried forward the ‘big calendar’, the date on the dial was usually displayed in a small window. For models with complex functions and unwilling to abandon the date display, the calendar window could only be minimized. , And then set a miniature magnifying glass on the dial to zoom in so that the wearer can see the numbers clearly. MillRichard Mille RM037: A self-winding movement made of hollow 5th grade titanium. The large calendar is located at 12 o’clock, and two hollow digital dials can be clearly seen side by side. Athens manager’s dual time zone female watch: The dual-window large calendar is a ‘two-disk coaxial’ structure, which minimizes the area of ​​the movement. Lange GRAND LANGE 1: A member of Lange’s 2012 new product. The big calendar is located at two o’clock and is the trademark of Lange. DeWitt GMT Triple Complication Watch: Creatively separate the ten-digit window from the single-digit window. Jaeger-LeCoultre large dual time zone flip watch: For the overall layout, the large calendar has been moved from its iconic 11 o’clock to 7 o’clock. Girard Perregaux Vintage1945 Large Calendar Moon Phase Watch: The 12 o’clock position instant jump calendar is Girard Perregaux’s patented technology and consists of two dials.
In 1994, the Lange watch factory that had been destroyed and silenced for 40 years after World War II launched the Lange 1, which has become the flagship series. The design of the eccentric small dial is amazing, and the most surprising thing is the 2 o’clock 4 times larger calendar window than contemporary watches. The design was inspired by the ‘five-minute jumping clock’ on the wall of the Semper Opera House in central Dresden. The clock was designed as two small windows, with the Roman numerals on the left window and the Arabic numerals on the right window. The minute is displayed, and the right window is refreshed every five minutes. The concise design allows everyone to read the time clearly. Lange reduced it and figured it out on the dial, setting off a ‘big calendar’ trend in the watch industry.
Before Lange carried forward the ‘big calendar’, the date on the dial was usually displayed in a small window. For models with complex functions and unwilling to give up the date display, the calendar window could only be minimized, and then a dial was set with a The magnifying glass magnifies so that the wearer can see the numbers clearly. The ‘big calendar’ generously creates a large space to display the date between square inches, and the date can be read clearly without using a magnifying glass. However, in order to achieve this ‘extensiveness’ on the dial, the watchmakers tried their best on the movement.
Generally speaking, if you look at the movement of an ordinary calendar display, you will find that it probably contains a ring disk with a number from 1 to 31. This disk works together with the gears such as the hour wheel, calendar dial, and the like every 24 hours. Rotate one space down to complete the date update, and in order to maximize the font of the ‘big calendar’, you first need to change the number from the natural progression on the same disc to the combination of the numbers on the two discs. In short, the ‘big calendar’ structure requires two number disks, and a ‘ten-digit disk’ is marked with four numbers 0, 1, 2, and 3 (some are only 1, 2, 3) representing ten digits. Numbers, another ‘unit plate’ is marked with ten digits from 0 to 9 to indicate single digits, and the date we see is displayed by a clever rotation combination of these two plates.
之后 After the two digital disks are ready, how to run them to display continuous numbers is a very technical mechanical problem. Watch technical expert Cao Weifeng summarized three basic modes of the large calendar structure: one plate and one ring coaxial, two plates coaxial, two disks side by side. ‘The side-by-side structure is simpler and the coaxial is more complicated, so it is also more popular.’
代表 The representative brand of ‘one plate, one ring, coaxial’ is Lange. The ring-shaped ten-digit plate overlaps with the single-digit plate. Above the larger single-digit plate, the ten-digit plate with 3 digits looks like a cross (one foot of the cross is notched, and blanks are used instead of the digits. 0). During the movement of the movement, the time wheel rotating at 12 hours / week continuously transmits power to the day-changing wheel that rotates for one week every 24 hours, and then passes a series of gear linkage cooperation to finally transfer the power to the responsible person. The gears that drive the ten-digit plate and the one-digit plate have only completed a date update. The advantage of ‘one plate, one ring, coaxial’ is to minimize the area occupied by the movement, which can be used in a smaller movement. This model is also used in the large calendars of Le Méridien and Jaeger-LeCoultre.
In fact, if you take a closer look, inside the ‘one disk and one ring coaxial’, the two digital disks have their own axis, and the ‘two disks coaxial’ can be regarded as the true ‘two disks and one heart’. Glashütte’s classic large calendar at 3 o’clock is typical, and its orientation at 3 o’clock is also determined by the ‘two-plate coaxial’ pattern. In this structure, the single-digit disc is arranged in a ring position along the edge of the movement, and a ten-digit disc with a diameter smaller than it is stacked on it.
However, because the planes of the ten-digit plate and the one-digit plate overlap with each other, the date displayed from the large calendar window will be visually poor, and a clear arc can be seen between the two numbers. It’s the edge of the swashplate. In order to reduce the visual aberration and erase the background arc, a common method is to add a vertical line between the two numbers to make a ‘double window frame’. This not only blocks the flaws but also strengthens the concept of ‘window frame’ , Can also deceive people’s eyes. However, some brands have taken a different approach. ‘Girard Perregaux made the top ten plates with crystal flakes. You can see the numbers, you cannot see the plates, and there will be no visual drop in a single window,’ said Conway Kai, a watch expert.
If ‘coaxial’ is derived from the insistence of German big calendar watches, more Swiss and other countries’ watches are more inclined to the structure of ‘two discs side by side’. The ten-digit plate and the single-digit plate are separated from the left to the right, and each rotates according to the rules to ‘spell’ two digits. The ‘footprint’ of this structure is not small, so it is often adopted by larger movements and presented on the large dial. Because the two small disks are on the same horizontal plane, the problem of ‘visual aberration’ no longer exists, but a new problem also follows: at the junction of the two disks, two arcs in opposite directions will appear, and the two The annoying arc is right between the ten digits and the single digits. So the ‘double window frame’ design had to be launched again, and sometimes the middle mullion was even thicker than the large coaxial calendar to cover it. However, for hollow-out models, ‘two plates side by side’ is a good design platform.
Tangle of calendar conversion
We know that there are 31 days in the big month, so when the 31st is transitioned to 1st, the ten digits will smoothly jump from 1 to 0 or blank, but the single digits must remain 1. How to make a 24-hour jump on a single place to stay for 48 hours obediently is the biggest problem of the large calendar structure. Conway Kai said, ‘German watches are not afraid of complexity. We must insist on achieving these 48 hours. But Swiss watches are not necessarily the case. Jaeger-LeCoultre and Amy are cleverly writing two 1s on the single plate, and many watches have made such updates. ‘
The second gossip looks a bit ‘redundant’: how is the ten-digit window handled when it is on the 1st to 9th of each month? In this regard, different brands have different opinions, some marked 0, some brands simply decorated with a little star. For the former, Cao Weifeng thinks that it does not meet the habit of reading people, especially dates. ‘After all, it is rarely said that today is a few days.’ The latter has been rated by many netizens as an extra step, so if you look closely, you will find that Most brands choose to spend nine days a month.

Categories: watches

Chopard’s New Three Precision Timepieces Dedicated To Antique Car Racing

Chopard’s new Grand Prix de Monaco Historique 2014 watch series consists of three outstanding timepieces. This high-performance comprehensive combination includes a chronograph, an automatic winding watch and a watch with a power reserve display, dedicated to the most prestigious antique car events.

Gentleman rider, mechanical passion
 The Monaco Antique Car Race is a collection of racing cars from the 1920s to 1985, making all kinds of very different antique cars roar in the same arena. It is a diverse race. Each car symbolizes the outstanding machinery of a particular era, escorting passionate riders to fight in real time. Chopard has been the sponsor and official timekeeper of the event since 2002, and has been involved in the event because of its unique emotional connection. Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele is a dedicated antique car enthusiast. At each event (every two years), Chopard will launch a limited edition chronograph to highlight the style of the event. In 2014, Chopard launched for the first time a true watch collection associated with this event. The new Grand Prix de Monaco Historique series includes a full range of fully functional watches designed to meet the needs of customers and drivers. Chopard launched three different styles, each with two materials, one with micro-blasted titanium and stainless steel, showing pure sports style; the other with rose gold and stainless steel, more precious and gorgeous. The Grand Prix de Monaco Historique watches have different functions, like three main engine groups: V6, V8 and V12.

Three watches, the same spirit
 The Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Automatic is an excellent timing tool. Its self-winding movement, certified by the Swiss Official Observatory (COSC), acts like a V6 engine, ensuring precision timing performance that meets driver requirements and Chopard standards. The Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Power Control is no longer a V8 engine, with a power reserve indicator at 6 o’clock. Its appearance design directly draws on gasoline or fuel gauge.

 Finally, the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Chrono is the V12 engine in the family. Powerful, orthodox, noble, well-deserved excellence racing equipment. The three watches of the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique series belong to the same family, and their completely renewed and innovative design makes them outstanding. The chassis is a 44.5 mm diameter titanium case, which is light, sturdy and has good biocompatibility. The caseback is engraved with the Automobile Club de Monaco logo, so it is made of stainless steel that is more resistant to engraving. The lugs have been reworked to ensure better wearing comfort. But the most important change is the dial. Its surface is sanded and grooved. The constantly running surface is reminiscent of the car’s speeding and cornering signs.

Speed ​​and sportiness
 The Grand Prix de Monaco Historique 2014 collection introduces a new shade. Yellow is the basic color of the racing language. Jumping and bright yellow represents speed, warnings, and dangers that riders face all the time. Fluorescent hour markers, hands, case back, everything is carefully designed to ensure that Automatic, Power Control and Chrono Grand Prix de Monaco Historique watches are easy to wear, easy to use, and easy to read. This shade is exclusive to the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique collection of titanium and stainless steel watches. These timepieces are highly functional and symbolize the concept of mechanical movement. This concept is closely linked to adaptability. Whether a driver wins or not depends on his ability to adapt. For this reason, these models are available with stainless steel and titanium bracelets or black barénia calfskin straps. The yellow bright stitching on the leather strap further extends the dial and the entire watch’s explosive atmosphere.

Elegant Confucianism
 In addition to these instrumentation tools, Chopard has launched watches made of stainless steel with titanium and rose gold. The hands, bezel and crown of the Automatic, Power Control and Chrono Grand Prix de Monaco Historique watches are plated with rose gold. The buttons of the Chrono Grand Prix de Monaco Historique watch are also made of precious rose gold, while the beige pin stitching of the black barenia calfskin strap is also embellished with rose gold. These more ornate and complex materials contrast with silver-gray dials and black hour markers, demonstrating that the classic racing world belongs to a gentle gentleman, with a refined elegance. This is Chopard’s dedication to car racing: a combination of superior mechanical performance, impeccable ergonomics, while at the same time losing the inherent elegance of the racing world.

Categories: watches

John Travolta And North American X-15 Rocket Power Tester Two Great Flying Legends Dance With Breitling Sky

As an internationally renowned movie star, experienced pilot and aviation fanatic, John Travolta has been working with Breitling for more than a decade. In order to perfectly shoot the new Breitling 2015 advertising blockbuster, Breitling, as a close partner of the world’s aviation industry, won the approval of the United States Air Force Flight Test Museum in Edwards, California, and borrowed the famous North American X-15 rocket-powered test machine.
   In the picture, John Travolta sits forward, while next to him is another flying legend, the North American X-15 rocket-powered test machine. In the 1960s, the North American X-15 rocket-powered test aircraft completed nearly 200 flights, pushing the limits of the aviation industry and opening the door to human space exploration. It also created two historical records. Commendation history: a record altitude of 107,960 meters in 1963 and a record speed of 7,274 km / h (Mach 6.7) in 1967.
   A brand new commercial featuring Travolta and the North American X-1 5 rocket-powered test machine was filmed on the runway of the famous Mojave Aerospace Port in California. As a professional wrist instrument that is precise, reliable, and constantly innovating, the cooperation between Breitling and the two great flying legends is undoubtedly a clear tribute to the ambition of mankind to conquer the sky.
Breitling
   From the day it was founded in 1884, Breitling, Switzerland’s top independent watchmaking brand, has played a vital role in the development of chronographs in the relentless pursuit of excellence and innovation. In 1915, Breitling pioneered the creation of the first independent chronograph button. In 1934, Breitling invented the second independent chronograph button, which established the appearance of a modern chronograph watch. In 1969, Breitling led the world’s first automatic watch. Winding chronograph watch; in 2009, Breitling launched its own self-developed high-performance automatic winding chronograph movement-Breitling’s own 01 movement; in 2014, Breitling launched the first Breitling’s homemade B50 movement with both hands and digital time display function, Re-establish the brand’s pioneering position in the field of technical watchmaking. As of now, Breitling already has 7 self-made movements. At the same time, Breitling is also the only watch brand in the world equipped with the most accurate and reliable movements for its entire series of watches. All movements (including mechanical watches and quartz watches) of all 11 major watches are certified by the Swiss Official Observatory (COSC) ). With precise, reliable and outstanding performance “Professional Wrist Meters”, Breitling has established its solid position as a specialist in precision chronograph watches and a close partner of the world aviation industry.
   As a family-owned company, Breitling is also one of the few independent watchmakers in Switzerland. The current head is Théodore Schneider. After five generations, every watch, every movement, every innovation is a challenge and conquest of Breitling’s relentless pursuit of ‘making the most precise timepieces.’ Welcome to the world of Breitling!

Categories: watches

Baselworld Basel 2013-tissot 80-hour Power Reserve Automatic Mechanical Watch

The design of the Tissot Haoji series watches is very pure and noble. Its mechanical movement has a power reserve of up to 80 hours, giving the watch an endless luxury experience.
These extraordinary qualities are attributed to its revolutionary Mechanical Power 80 movement. After full strings, this movement can work for three days without any adjustment. Whether you’re busy at work or on a leisurely vacation, you can control the time anytime, anywhere, and face any arrangement calmly.

Extraordinary art
The Tissot Hao Zhi series mechanical automatic watch is full of noble temperament. It conveys a natural and elegant style through pure color matching and delicate and smooth design. Through the skillful use of frosting and polishing, many of the watch’s design details are highlighted, reflecting the wearer’s strong personal style, which makes it impossible to refuse. The characteristics of the Tissot series are numerous, and its elegant and noble appearance is icing on the cake. However, the internal movement is the most luxurious finishing touch of the entire watch. With the continuous development of watchmaking technology as a discipline, Tissot also relies on these new technologies to continuously pursue precision and strive to climb the peak of timing technology. Some models of this series have been certified by COSC (Swiss Official Observatory Testing Organization).
Mechanical power 80 automatic winding movement
The courage to innovate is an integral part of Tissot’s DNA and the core philosophy of the company. Adhering to this concept, Tissot has developed a high-performance movement with a cross-age significance. Tissot and the ETA factory worked closely to launch this latest automatic movement. The two sides worked together to push the performance of the movement in terms of precision and power storage to new limits, and a new interpretation of ‘time’. ‘Innovation, from tradition’ is the brand spirit of Tissot, and ETA is good at the development of precision movements. It is because the two companies successfully supported and carried each other that this new movement emerged.
The secret of Tissot’s success lies in continuously innovating its professional watchmaking techniques and traditions, and achieving success again and again. The introduction of this movement is no exception. The mechanical power 80 movement not only shows extraordinary precision, but also has an 80-hour power reserve. In addition, adhering to the brand concept of making luxury goods more accessible, the price of this revolutionary movement is enough to make you feel excited.
working principle
The standard movement is usually equipped with a barrel, which can store 36 hours of power when full. However, in the development of the mechanical power 80 movement, Tissot and ETA designed a spring barrel with a completely new structure, trying to make the power reserve more durable. The new movement has a power reserve of up to 80 hours without having to wind it. The powerful power reserve cannot meet the high requirements of the brand for itself, so Tissot and ETA also focused on improving the adjustment system to make the movement more accurate and more durable. Another reason why the movement is more durable is to cancel the scale division in the watch’s original adjustment system and replace it with an innovative technical component. The new thinking mode and necessary improvements have created a revolutionary mechanical power 80 automatic movement. You can experience the excellent performance of this movement yourself in the Tissot Haoji watch, it is the first watch using this movement.
Tissot increases movement power reserve to 80 hours
Since the birth of Tissot in 1853, it has been adhering to the brand concept of ‘innovation and tradition.’ Driven by this concept, Tissot has developed a new revolutionary fully automatic mechanical power 80 movement. The power reserve of this movement can reach an unprecedented 80 hours. Mechanical Power 80 movement was developed in cooperation with Tissot and movement manufacturer ETA. It was first used in the Tissot Haoji series. Compared to the 42-hour power reserve of the traditional movement, the Tissot Mechanical Power 80 movement can continue to work for 80 hours. As a result, the wearer can take off his watch on Friday night and enjoy the weekend to the fullest. Put it on again after the weekend without any manipulation of the watch, the watch still keeps the time accurately.
In order to achieve this technological leap, Tissot has greatly reduced the energy consumption of watch movements during operation. The vibration frequency of the Powematic 80 movement was reduced from 4 Hz to 3 Hz. The escapement of this movement uses a high-performance synthetic material to reduce friction. At the same time, because the diameter of the mainspring shaft is shortened, the extension space of the mainspring can be enlarged, thereby greatly prolonging the power reserve time. Finally, Tissot also used an innovative method to adjust the balance wheel, which further improved the accuracy of the watch.
Adhering to the brand concept of ‘innovation, originating from tradition’, Tissot, a traditional Swiss watchmaking brand, has launched this new product embodying a highly innovative spirit.
Technical Parameters
• Made in Switzerland
• Swiss-made new mechanical power 80 self-winding mechanical movement
• Swiss-made new mechanical power 80 self-winding mechanical movement, independently certified by the Swiss Astronomical Clock Official Testing Institution (COSC)
• 316L stainless steel case, or gold or rose gold PVD coating, with transparent case back
• Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-glare coating
• Water-resistant to withstand pressures equivalent to 5 bar (50 meters / 165 feet)
• 316L stainless steel strap, or gold or rose gold PVD coating; or leather strap with push button butterfly clasp

Categories: watches

Seven Gold Watches Below 100,000 Yuan

In the watch industry, when it comes to ‘popular’, it is inevitable to put quotation marks. For example, in recent years, tourbillons have become popular. Watchmakers do tourbillons without knowing what to do; watch editors write tourbillons when they ca n’t think of a topic; customers buy other tourbillons when they do n’t think about it— In terms of production, tourbillon watches actually only occupy a small share of the entire watch market. Although it is popular, the product itself is never popular.

TAG Heuer Carrera Heritage Gold Watch
Everything that can be popular is either a new thing that quickly disappears after infinite scenery, or a classic that never goes out of style. Although I am not an expert in the history of watches and clocks, I can also judge that gold watches are not in the former category. According to my personal experience on the auction floor, the earliest inter-gold watches can be traced back to the 1940s. It was the era when men’s watches were gradually shaped and the contemporary features of watches began to show. At that time, there were a large number of manufacturers of gold watches. Among them, the most influential and the most appreciable output were Rolex’s Ref.2940 small three-hand watch and Ref.3372 large three-hand watch. They used Rolex’s iconic ‘Oyster’-oyster case and ‘Bubble Back-‘ the case back, plus the gold design that was later called ‘Rolesor’ by the factory, it can be said that It’s hard not to be a classic. It is very likely that it is precisely because of Rolex’s efforts that the gold watch is enduring.
According to the thinking habits of modern people, it is easy for us to preconceive the gold watch as a product of the combination of steel and gold watches, thinking that it will appear very late. However, in fact, the gold watch and the steel watch appear on the front and rear feet. They are all juniors of the gold watch. Even if they are related, they are only cousins, not father and son. Stainless steel entered the stage of history at the beginning of the last century. It was not patented and mass-produced until 1916, and it will take several years to make watches. Some people say that stainless steel is the greatest invention of the 20th century. It makes Europeans not have to eat rice even if they ca n’t afford silver tableware. Its significance is far better than today’s touch screen phones, Android systems, and somatosensory games.

米 Omega Sea Horse Series Aqua Terra Calendar
43 mm case, made of stainless steel and 18K red gold, equipped with an Omega 8601/8611 coaxial movement (the latter is a luxury version of the former, the rotor and balance plate are made of 18K red gold). Equipped with a coaxial escapement, an instantaneous jump calendar and a 55-hour power reserve with dual barrels, a swing frequency of 25,200 beats / hour, and a unique ‘teak concept’ vertical textured dial.
Price: 88700 yuan

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner Calendar
40mm case, made of stainless steel and 18ct yellow gold, equipped with 3135 automatic movement. This 116613 has one more prefix than the old 16613, but it also has three practical functions: Parachrom blue hairspring, Cerachrom ceramic word circle and solid Glidelock buckle.
Price: 92600 yuan

Cartier Calibre de Cartier watch
42mm case, made of stainless steel and 18K rose gold, equipped with Cartier 1904-PS MC automatic movement. The silver-white dial is slightly pearlescent, with a unique combination of Roman numerals and geometrical luminous hours, which is the personality of gold.

Raymond Weil 2010 new Parsifal watch
ParThe Parsifal series is inspired by Wagner’s last opera, which mainly depicts the spiritual exploration of the knight spirit and the mysterious world. The 41.4 mm case, made of stainless steel and 18K rose gold, is loaded with the Dubois Dépraz 2010 timing module based on the ETA 2892/2 movement. This is a work with original spirit. It is very sensitive to the use of K gold material. It has established a connection with the inner world through delicate design and strong contrast.
Price: 40,000 yuan

Longines Watchmaker Series
36mm case, made of stainless steel and 18K gold, equipped with an automatic winding movement. Although the functions are common, the product is upgraded with gold needles, diamond scales and a simple design.
The price is only 21800 yuan

Emperor rudder watch
42mm case, made of stainless steel and 18ct yellow gold, equipped with a self-winding movement. This watch has been recommended many times in the past year. It subverts the traditional image of the Tudor watch with a complete art design concept. Although it is a gold watch, it is a gold watch, but it belongs to Different times.
Price: 33,000 yuan

Categories: watches