To measure the self-positioning of a successful man, a watch is one of the useful rulers. When the sleeves of the jacket are lifted upwards, the only acceptable jewelry other than wedding rings shows the owner’s taste and occasional awareness.
Franck Muller Revolution3
意大利 An Italian motto spread by watch dealers makes sense: Well-dressed men have at least three watches. The most important piece is the daily watch, which complements your profession. If you do finance, then in addition to transmitting time information, the watch must also convey a sense of stability. If you do media or art, you can look more publicized. And if your occupation involves special jobs–ambulance drivers, insurance brokers, Boeing 747 pilots, and so on–then it’s like an iPhone app with all kinds of watches to wear.
选择 The second watch has a wider selection. This is your casual watch, which can be worn on various occasions while working slowly in the garden on the beach, on the ski slopes. Whether it’s a Swatch for less than £ 50 or a nearly unbreakable Rolex, it means that you can be completely carefree when you dive quickly in the pool or swing on the golf course. This is a watch with a sense of randomness.
The last piece is a formal watch. If you wear a black tie more than once a year, or if there are events like watching movie premieres, listening to opera, or going to high-end restaurants on your schedule, then your daily watch may seem out of date. In the last part of this trilogy, you have two choices. One is to wear a classic, simple, time-only gold formal watch, and the other is to make yourself look glamorous. This can be seen on the watch. Diamond to achieve.
How to choose? The first watch is often given by others, starting from Timex, and not everything. The occasion to receive it may be graduation, normalization, finding the first job, or adulthood. This watch will never fully meet your expectations, but you will wear it and cherish it, from your teens until you get your first salary. Then you will be tempted by TAG Heuer, Omega or Rolex. Which one you choose depends on your budget. This will be your first ‘real’ watch.
Selection is very important for watches, but it may not be as complicated as you think. As master watchmaker Peter Roberts puts it, there are no bad watches because they all perform the same basic function and they do a good job of displaying time. Manufacturing standards are unimaginably high, so you should buy based on your budget and preferences.
‘Serious’ watches range from around 1,000 euros to as much as 1,500 euros, with a limited number of watches starting at more than 3,000 euros. To appreciate the top craftsmanship, prepare to pay at least € 5,000. And if you want your watch to have little chance to be the same as another guest at the dinner, you must first think about whether you can get 15,000 euros or more. At this point, you have entered a famous hall, A. Lange & Sohne, Breguet, Patek Philippe and so on. Watches with this money may go beyond the entry-level of these brands. Think about it this way: Although the nameplates may be the same, there are still big differences between the BMW 3 Series and 7 Series, and so are watches.
花 Spend more money, and you can get more in terms of ‘complexity’. This is the term used by watch manufacturers to describe functions other than timing. The most common and important ‘complexity’ is displaying the calendar, followed by the weekly, monthly, and annual calendars. The most popular features among collectors are dual time zones, moon phases and timers. Of course the case will be gold or platinum. In addition to these, functions such as perpetual calendar, tourbillon and chronograph are sought after by experts, and their prices have reached six digits.
Richard Mille Tourbillon RM 018
‘Pre-owned’ (pre-owned) is a euphemism for second-hand watches. Like buying all kinds of novelty cars, some people get tired of buying rare watches and sell them before buying new ones. Also like a car, a watch will not appreciate in the short term unless it is very special. So you can buy used watches from dealers such as David Duggan and Watch Club with packaging and certificates at very real prices. The disadvantage is that you are not buying from a ‘primary agent’.
Anything more than 25 years old can be called the ‘vintage’ title. Antique watches can only be bought at the right place at the right time. No matter how much you want a piece of Rose Gold Rolex ‘Bubbleback’ from the 1930s, you can’t find a nearest dealer to order a piece like Rolex ‘DateJust’.
If it is a spare watch, don’t even consider buying an antique watch unless you are rich and have a master watchmaker to repair it. If your watch requires a part and cannot be ordered from the manufacturer, then this part can only be built from scratch. This means that maintenance costs can be very high.
Watch auctions are becoming more common. The principle to be followed is the same as any other type of auction: research the auction catalogue, determine your own price cap, and then participate in the pre-auction preview. Recent watches sell for much less than those sold in antique stores. If the watch you are bidding for is relatively new and the competition is not fierce, then you can pick up a bargain.
If in doubt, in addition to your own knowledge and experience, you can also seek the services of an expert. Whether it’s a watch craftsman, a hobbyist, or an honest retailer, they will reduce your risk and buy a very good watch.
But it is also worth remembering two truths in the watch market, there are only two:
──If you buy with an investment mentality, only two brands will not be influenced by the trend and will not depreciate after a long time, that is Patek Philippe and Rolex.
──If you only want a watch and you are satisfied with it no matter what the occasion, then there is a watch that won’t look down on you, won’t be pointed by others, can withstand the rewards, and will not encounter quality problems. It’s the Zippo lighter in the watch or the BMW 3 Series: Rolex’s stainless steel ‘Air-King’.