Before Lange carried forward the ‘big calendar’, the date on the dial was usually displayed in a small window. For models with complex functions and unwilling to abandon the date display, the calendar window could only be minimized. , And then set a miniature magnifying glass on the dial to zoom in so that the wearer can see the numbers clearly. MillRichard Mille RM037: A self-winding movement made of hollow 5th grade titanium. The large calendar is located at 12 o’clock, and two hollow digital dials can be clearly seen side by side. Athens manager’s dual time zone female watch: The dual-window large calendar is a ‘two-disk coaxial’ structure, which minimizes the area of the movement. Lange GRAND LANGE 1: A member of Lange’s 2012 new product. The big calendar is located at two o’clock and is the trademark of Lange. DeWitt GMT Triple Complication Watch: Creatively separate the ten-digit window from the single-digit window. Jaeger-LeCoultre large dual time zone flip watch: For the overall layout, the large calendar has been moved from its iconic 11 o’clock to 7 o’clock. Girard Perregaux Vintage1945 Large Calendar Moon Phase Watch: The 12 o’clock position instant jump calendar is Girard Perregaux’s patented technology and consists of two dials.
In 1994, the Lange watch factory that had been destroyed and silenced for 40 years after World War II launched the Lange 1, which has become the flagship series. The design of the eccentric small dial is amazing, and the most surprising thing is the 2 o’clock 4 times larger calendar window than contemporary watches. The design was inspired by the ‘five-minute jumping clock’ on the wall of the Semper Opera House in central Dresden. The clock was designed as two small windows, with the Roman numerals on the left window and the Arabic numerals on the right window. The minute is displayed, and the right window is refreshed every five minutes. The concise design allows everyone to read the time clearly. Lange reduced it and figured it out on the dial, setting off a ‘big calendar’ trend in the watch industry.
Before Lange carried forward the ‘big calendar’, the date on the dial was usually displayed in a small window. For models with complex functions and unwilling to give up the date display, the calendar window could only be minimized, and then a dial was set with a The magnifying glass magnifies so that the wearer can see the numbers clearly. The ‘big calendar’ generously creates a large space to display the date between square inches, and the date can be read clearly without using a magnifying glass. However, in order to achieve this ‘extensiveness’ on the dial, the watchmakers tried their best on the movement.
Generally speaking, if you look at the movement of an ordinary calendar display, you will find that it probably contains a ring disk with a number from 1 to 31. This disk works together with the gears such as the hour wheel, calendar dial, and the like every 24 hours. Rotate one space down to complete the date update, and in order to maximize the font of the ‘big calendar’, you first need to change the number from the natural progression on the same disc to the combination of the numbers on the two discs. In short, the ‘big calendar’ structure requires two number disks, and a ‘ten-digit disk’ is marked with four numbers 0, 1, 2, and 3 (some are only 1, 2, 3) representing ten digits. Numbers, another ‘unit plate’ is marked with ten digits from 0 to 9 to indicate single digits, and the date we see is displayed by a clever rotation combination of these two plates.
之后 After the two digital disks are ready, how to run them to display continuous numbers is a very technical mechanical problem. Watch technical expert Cao Weifeng summarized three basic modes of the large calendar structure: one plate and one ring coaxial, two plates coaxial, two disks side by side. ‘The side-by-side structure is simpler and the coaxial is more complicated, so it is also more popular.’
代表 The representative brand of ‘one plate, one ring, coaxial’ is Lange. The ring-shaped ten-digit plate overlaps with the single-digit plate. Above the larger single-digit plate, the ten-digit plate with 3 digits looks like a cross (one foot of the cross is notched, and blanks are used instead of the digits. 0). During the movement of the movement, the time wheel rotating at 12 hours / week continuously transmits power to the day-changing wheel that rotates for one week every 24 hours, and then passes a series of gear linkage cooperation to finally transfer the power to the responsible person. The gears that drive the ten-digit plate and the one-digit plate have only completed a date update. The advantage of ‘one plate, one ring, coaxial’ is to minimize the area occupied by the movement, which can be used in a smaller movement. This model is also used in the large calendars of Le Méridien and Jaeger-LeCoultre.
In fact, if you take a closer look, inside the ‘one disk and one ring coaxial’, the two digital disks have their own axis, and the ‘two disks coaxial’ can be regarded as the true ‘two disks and one heart’. Glashütte’s classic large calendar at 3 o’clock is typical, and its orientation at 3 o’clock is also determined by the ‘two-plate coaxial’ pattern. In this structure, the single-digit disc is arranged in a ring position along the edge of the movement, and a ten-digit disc with a diameter smaller than it is stacked on it.
However, because the planes of the ten-digit plate and the one-digit plate overlap with each other, the date displayed from the large calendar window will be visually poor, and a clear arc can be seen between the two numbers. It’s the edge of the swashplate. In order to reduce the visual aberration and erase the background arc, a common method is to add a vertical line between the two numbers to make a ‘double window frame’. This not only blocks the flaws but also strengthens the concept of ‘window frame’ , Can also deceive people’s eyes. However, some brands have taken a different approach. ‘Girard Perregaux made the top ten plates with crystal flakes. You can see the numbers, you cannot see the plates, and there will be no visual drop in a single window,’ said Conway Kai, a watch expert.
If ‘coaxial’ is derived from the insistence of German big calendar watches, more Swiss and other countries’ watches are more inclined to the structure of ‘two discs side by side’. The ten-digit plate and the single-digit plate are separated from the left to the right, and each rotates according to the rules to ‘spell’ two digits. The ‘footprint’ of this structure is not small, so it is often adopted by larger movements and presented on the large dial. Because the two small disks are on the same horizontal plane, the problem of ‘visual aberration’ no longer exists, but a new problem also follows: at the junction of the two disks, two arcs in opposite directions will appear, and the two The annoying arc is right between the ten digits and the single digits. So the ‘double window frame’ design had to be launched again, and sometimes the middle mullion was even thicker than the large coaxial calendar to cover it. However, for hollow-out models, ‘two plates side by side’ is a good design platform.
Tangle of calendar conversion
We know that there are 31 days in the big month, so when the 31st is transitioned to 1st, the ten digits will smoothly jump from 1 to 0 or blank, but the single digits must remain 1. How to make a 24-hour jump on a single place to stay for 48 hours obediently is the biggest problem of the large calendar structure. Conway Kai said, ‘German watches are not afraid of complexity. We must insist on achieving these 48 hours. But Swiss watches are not necessarily the case. Jaeger-LeCoultre and Amy are cleverly writing two 1s on the single plate, and many watches have made such updates. ‘
The second gossip looks a bit ‘redundant’: how is the ten-digit window handled when it is on the 1st to 9th of each month? In this regard, different brands have different opinions, some marked 0, some brands simply decorated with a little star. For the former, Cao Weifeng thinks that it does not meet the habit of reading people, especially dates. ‘After all, it is rarely said that today is a few days.’ The latter has been rated by many netizens as an extra step, so if you look closely, you will find that Most brands choose to spend nine days a month.