Month: April 2021

Rolex Cellini Reflective Art Of Life

ROLEX presents the new Cellini series, showing the classic style and timeless elegance of traditional clocks and watches in a contemporary spirit. This new collection is made up of 12 classic models, each of which combines expertise and exquisite craftsmanship, fully showing the timelessness of Rolex’s watchmaking tradition.

With simple and elegant lines, noble and magnificent materials, and exquisite luxury decoration, every detail conforms to the laws of watchmaking. However, this new series of watches is not limited to the beautiful designs of yesteryear. Inspired by the well-respected artist, goldsmith and Holy See sculptor Benvenuto Cellini of the Italian Renaissance, the Rolex Cellini series returns to classical roots on the one hand, and reinterprets the essence of the middle with modern methods, perfect harmonious. These watches contain Rolex’s watchmaking tradition, reminiscent of contemporary immortal architecture, with its layout proportions and minimalist lines, which are cleverly matched with modern space and light and shadow. The new Cellini watch breaks away from the traditional constraints and completely becomes the guardian of time. It is also a symbol of luxury style and truly reflects the extraordinary value of art de vivre.

The new Cellini series represents the most exquisite and charming part of the watchmaking tradition, which is absolutely noble and elegant. The case is made by Rolex’s exclusive foundry and is available in 18ct white gold or eternal rose gold. The classic circular design with a diameter of 39 mm is the brand’s traditional logo. The delicate shape of the ears, polished finish, and double outer ring composed of a dome-shaped outer ring and a triangular pitted outer ring make the watch unique . Among them, the triangular pit pattern symbolizing Rolex is used for the screw-in case back, which is rounded like the old design. The trumpet-shaped screw-down crown underlines the delicate aesthetics of the Cellini series.

Another dial also quotes the brand’s watchmaking knowledge and tradition. Each dial is decorated with lacquer, or decorated with black or silver-plated classic ‘rayon flammé de la gloire’ radial pattern, and is equipped with gold three-dimensional hour markers. The dial layout depends on the different functions of the watch. The entire Cellini series can be Divided into three major categories. The Cellini Date adds the calendar function through the hands of the sub-dial, which is both practical and practical. Finally, the Cellini Dual Time can display the time in two time zones at the same time, and the sub-dial window in the second time zone is equipped with elegant sun and moon day and night indicators. All new Cellini watches are equipped with extremely precise mechanical self-winding movements, all of which are certified by the Observatory as precision timepieces and manufactured by Rolex. For the purest traditional style, these watches are equipped with a bright black or brown crocodile leather strap, stitching trim, and 18 ct gold buckle, which appropriately reflects the elegance of a gentleman.

The essence of Cellini Time
Hours, minutes and seconds are essential elements of daily timing. Cellini Time knows nothing, strives to grasp the present, and captures every moment of every moment. The simple and clear dial not only pays tribute to the timeless principles of traditional watchmaking, but also reinterprets the essence of the watch in an elegant and modern style, including long and stylish Roman numerals, separated by a minute track moved to the center of the dial, The long o’clock mark near the end of the pointer. With this extraordinary timepiece’s self-winding chronograph movement, the faceted and double-edged sword-shaped hands can run accurately every hour, every second.

Cellini Time is available in four models, with black or white lacquered dial, and a 39 mm case in 18 ct white gold or eternal rose gold for an elegant and contemporary look

Cellini Date, elegant day and night
Time goes on endlessly, yesterday, today, tomorrow. Every day is different and indispensable. In addition to the hour, minute, and second display, Cellini Date adds a calendar display function, showing its elegant style, prominent tradition and poetic. A small, gold-plated subdial with a radial pattern at the 3 o’clock position displays the full sequence of the day of the month. Just like the old clock, the small gold hands indicate the current day and day. This calendar display is set on a single dial, witnessing time, this outstanding timepiece is always with you, whether yesterday, today or tomorrow.

Cellini Date black and silver dial with ‘rayon flammé de la gloire’ radial pattern, elegant and calm

Cellini Dual Time
太阳 The sun rises over there, and the day here is about to end. As the night gets darker, the sun slowly disappears from the horizon, and under the Cellini Dual Time dial window, the sun slowly emerges. Cellini Dual Time allows the wearer to know the time in different regions, and can read the time in two places at the same time with a glance. At the 6 o’clock position of the small Phnom Penh sub-dial, you can know the time display of other parties. You can know the time of your loved ones when you travel abroad, and you can also check the time of the country where your business partner is. To distinguish between day and night time, the sun or moon logo appears on the subdial window at 9 o’clock. The large central pointer with a double-edged sword shape always accompanies the wearer on the journey. The hour hand can also be adjusted independently by continuing the ‘jump’ to display the time in the time zone in which it is located without affecting the normal operation of the watch or the accuracy of the automatic winding movement.

Cellini Dual Time features a low-key luxury image with alligator-stitched crocodile leather straps, showing the Rolex brand spirit

Meihua Elegant Design Logo Interprets Metropolis Fashion Charm

Some square models, which are rare in plum watches, have classic design and are suitable for both inside and outside.
TITONI Swiss Wallet’s new Wall Street watch is a perfect combination of classic and fashion. The square surface design is tough and noble. This series of watches have undergone the most stringent production tests. The three-segment design of the all-steel strap is specially designed for the curvature of the wrist to ensure comfortable wearing. It is definitely an option for both inside and outside.
In addition to the beautifully curved arched surface glass, the transparent sapphire caseback of the Wall Street watch shows the precise movement of the structure. The back cover is fitted with screws, which is strong and sturdy. The laser mark is engraved on the automatic tourbillon and ‘of Switzerland [made in Switzerland, hand-crafted. The case is specially brushed and polished around the side, and the bezel is polished to enhance the layering. The surface is black and silver, respectively. There are two types of gray. There are also styles in which zircon is used to replace the digital display time, adding an elegant style. The watch comes with a belt and a steel belt for purchase, and both are equipped with a folding buckle engraved with TITONI.
The Wall Street watch collection combines classic design and outstanding Swiss quality, revealing a distinctive fashion charm, which is definitely suitable for executives who pursue the taste of life and talk generously. This ingenious work is assembled and tested at the original factory in Grenchen, Switzerland, to ensure quality. Since its establishment in 1919, TITONI has been owned by the founder’s Shrop family and has been rooted in the town of Grinchen, Switzerland, where Plum Watch has passed on their traditional watchmaking techniques and experience from generation to generation, and has developed a strong base.
TITONI Master Series has been attracting the attention of users and collectors with its classic shape and precise observatory movement since its launch in 2006. This year marks the 90th anniversary of the brand, TITONI decided to launch the third generation of the Master Series chronometer watch, to continue the classic.
The third-generation Master Series watch with a diameter of 40mm has a classic and fashionable design, and the delicate texture around the surface is the symbol of Master Series’ elegant design. The transparent back cover uses sapphire glass, so that the “Côtes de Genève” nevada pattern, the Pantheon logo, the name of the Master Series and the word TITONI are engraved and polished on the automatic rotor of the movement. The emerald-green TITONI logo’s special handle and three-hand configuration are more handmade and precise. The third-generation Master Series watch is equipped with a leather or stainless steel strap; the surface options are black and white, respectively, to set off the wearer’s personal style.
Each Master Series chronometer watch is equipped with a movement certified by COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres), the official observatory of Switzerland, and a certificate issued by it. There is one on the movement, the case and the certificate Corresponding number. In order to obtain the Swiss Observatory certification, it must pass a total of 3 strict standards for 15 days, including temperature test (8, 23, 38 degrees), five different orientation tests (3 o’clock, 6 o’clock, 9 o’clock up) , Surface up and down] and the daily error of the watch between the standard of +6 to -4 seconds, we can see that the Master Series process is absolutely meticulous.

TITONI Master Series has always been known for its outstanding functions and classic appearance. This year TITONI launched the women’s version for the first time, preventing men from enjoying superb Swiss watchmaking skills. In order to highlight the feminine charm, the series introduces new elements. The large mother-of-pearl dial is set with sparkling diamonds at 12 and 6 o’clock, and it is matched with a pink leather strap.

If You Can’t Meet It, Talk About Patek Philippe 5370p Dual Seconds Chronograph Watch

At Basel International Watch & Jewellery Show this year, Patek Philippe launched the Ref. 5370P-001 two-second chronograph watch for the first time. Now that a few months have passed, now the editor will take everyone to review this excellent creation and talk about their shallow opinions and insights.
   The 5370 is a brand new model, but it is intended to be a symbol of the future, as we understand it: it will not be produced at regular speeds. Except for 5950A pillow-shaped stainless steel and 5959P ultra-thin double-second chronograph watch (both equipped with CH27-525 self-made ultra-thin movement), the new 5370P-001 is the only one with dual-second chronograph function and equipped with Watch models with different homemade movements (CH29-535). Seeing it, some people may think of the ancient 5004 and the 5204 replacing 5004, but the latter also has a perpetual calendar function.
   Patek Philippe celebrated its 175th anniversary and many commemorative models are dazzling, but we can boldly assert that 5370P-001 is one of the most attractive models launched by Patek Philippe in the past October or even in ten years. Now, let’s take a closer look at the look of this watch with real pictures.
Case
   The 5370P-001 case is made of platinum, with a diameter of 41 mm and a thickness of 13.5 mm. Compared with 5950, the atmosphere is more stable. The case is paired with a delicate and beautiful convex bezel. Of course, whether it is a little more personality of 5370P-001 or a little more elegant of other thinner models, everyone has their own taste preferences.

   5370P-001 is very classic and very attractive when viewed from the front. From the shape of the lugs to the convex bezel, we all have a familiar feeling, yes, Ref.130! Observing Ref.130 in the above figure for comparison, you can also find a similar strap bolt protruding from the lug, which is more classic ‘penetrating’ design.
   Observing from the side, it is easy to find the long grooved ring that connects the lugs on both sides. In my memory, this is the first time in Patek Philippe’s history to adopt such a design. The watch ring is brushed and polished, and the texture curve shows a subtle radian. It is not easy to achieve this retouch. Imagine that if the case side adopts an ordinary shape design, its final effect should not be compared with the present.
   It needs to be emphasized that when you really appreciate the 5370P-001 on the spot, this is the second element you notice after the plate. This kind of watch ring design gives 5370P-001 individuality and characteristics, making it unique. It is different from other Patek Philippe chronographs that are well-known before. It also brings Patek Philippe chronographs into a new aesthetic field.
   The ‘ear-piercing’ design is more classic, and the convex round platinum structure can hide the strap hole on the back of the strap, and it is also an excellent decoration. Careful observation of the real pictures, the end of the long groove on the side of the case is perfectly joined with the convex round platinum structure and integrated with the lugs.
Crown and buttons

 
   Usually, if the crown is too large, the case side with the crown will appear very unbalanced. The 5370P-001’s crown size specifications are just as desirable.

   Two timing function buttons can control the start, stop and reset functions of the timing device, and there is another button at the crown to control the start and stop of the two-second chase hand function. Not only is the structure symmetrical, but the functions are also very convenient and practical. The top of the button is polished and the sides are brushed, just in harmony with the case finishing process.
dial

    The dial is made of white gold and is decorated with enamel. Firstly, apply the enamel powder evenly on the dial, then bake it in a 850 ° C kiln, and then use precise controlled cooling technology to gradually cool and solidify it for polishing.
   What is really difficult to control is the manufacture of the enamel dial without any trace of impurities. You know, compared to the white dial, the black dial is particularly conspicuous if there are residual impurities. From these pictures you can very clearly observe how stunning the 5370P-001 dial looks, the ordinary lacquered dial cannot be compared with it at all. In my opinion, no other Patek Philippe model can do this.
   As for the charm of the Platinum Breguet block, we have already experienced it on the 5170G.

   Personally, I usually pay more attention to the combination of the dark plate and the white transfer. The contrast between the two is too sharp and often lacks refined and elegant. Of course, I also understand that it may bring a modern or casual atmosphere to very classic watches.
   The 5370P-001 enamel dial has a deep gloss and a very polished finish. The reflective light on the black dial surface makes the contrast more consistent. The white transfer scale is subtle in thickness, pleasing to the eye, and looks very enjoyable. In contrast, the scale of the new 5905P sub-dial is slightly too thick, reducing the elegance, and it is easy to guide people to pay more attention to the side of the dial. 5370P-001? Just right.
   From 3970, 5070, 5970, 5170 to different versions of 5270, Patek Philippe chronographs have different scales. Both the tachymeter scale and the pulsometer scale are great, of course, the personal preference is the latter (as long as the dial is not particularly cumbersome). The 5370P-001 is equipped with a speedometer scale.

   The existence of the tachymeter scale perfectly balances the sub-dial scale, giving life to the dial. The black dial, if the scale is too small, the contrast of the details is not sharp enough, which will make the overall effect of the watch darker. However, a shiny dial should be different from a satin or matte dial.

pointer
   The Superluminova coating is usually sporty, but the classic leaf-shaped hands make this watch unique. Paired with a black dial, it adds a touch of romance to the watch. If you use a pin or a toffee needle, the effect will be completely different and more modern, but without the ‘authentic’ look and feel.
   At the same time, the superluminova fluorescent layer is applied to give the watch a casual spirit. From this perspective, 5370P-001 seems to really come from the early 20th century instead of the 1960s and 70s.

Movement
   The 5370P-001 and 5204 are equipped with a CHR29-535 PS manual winding movement, equipped with a stud wheel and a horizontal clutch, a frequency of 28,800 vibrations / hour (4 Hz), and can provide a power reserve of 55 to 65 hours. Compared with the simple timing movement equipped with the 5170, the 5370P-001 is equipped with many new patented innovations.
   Similar to the 5204 application, the 5370P-001 is equipped with an isolator. When the lap time is stopped, the isolator can separate the two-second chase gear and the chronograph wheel, reducing unnecessary friction.

   In addition, you can also notice a number of innovations in the application of the movement of the 5370P-001. They are not just improvements for marketing. These innovations are very interesting and some are simple. In my opinion, the evaluation of the technical performance of the movement depends not only on the number and complexity of the assembled parts, but also on the improvements made in a simple way.
   In terms of aesthetics, compared to the previous 5004 equipped movement, the 5370P-001-equipped movement takes another step forward in design. Top-grade retouching, gorgeous appearance, impressive, just like the CH27-525 movement used in 5950.

   Most of the stainless steel parts are chamfered, and the two-second chase pin clamp is polished. The finishing process is exemplary. By the way, compared with German silver (copper-zinc-nickel alloy), individuals prefer stainless steel because they do not appreciate the color of the former. Of course, I can’t say which of the stainless steel and the German silver is stronger. I wonder if anyone can confirm it?
   One more thing, I really don’t think it makes sense to do so-called rankings for these movements. They each correspond to the brand’s technical expectations for different models. Compared with ordinary movements, they can be regarded as another level of masterpieces. In fact, 324 movements and 240 movements are still very good.

Summary: I believe that for many watch fans, 5370P-001 is a dream, and the editor can only congratulate them on their choice and wish them success. 5370P-001 is an excellent example of the ingenious combination of Patek Philippe machinery, aesthetics and finishing. It is absolutely gorgeous and unique. The experience of wearing 5370P-001 will be exceptional.

Extremely Excessive Lange Watch Selection Guide Lange 1 Series

Many people once asked me whether I should buy A. Lange & Söhne or Patek Philippe. My answer is firm and I must buy both because these two There is no good or bad brand, only the style is different. PP represents Switzerland’s top watchmaking craftsmanship, while Lange has perfectly interpreted and interpreted the essence of German traditional watchmaking! So he asked me again, how is the German watch? I asked it back then, please tell me what is not good in Germany. He was speechless. We might as well think about it, as long as it is attached to machinery, from cars, trains, excavators, to cabinets. , Cameras, and suitcases, there is nothing in Germany that is not a leader in this field. The German philosophy is that if you do n’t do it, you must be the number one in the world!

 This is particularly evident in Lange’s body. Although the Lange brand was founded in 1845, each of us knows that the history of the Lange watch is actually only 24 years. In current words, Lange is an authentic post-90s. However, it is the miracle of the post-90s generation that has already ranked among the world’s top watches in such a short time and has won the respect of collectors all over the world. This is a miracle!

 The reason why Lange can achieve such remarkable achievements is, on the one hand, the Germans’ attitude of excellence in doing things, on the one hand, Lange has other top watch brands that cannot do it, and in Lange’s many unique watchmaking processes, Two of them are the ones that impress me the most and I admire them the most. One is that Lange is the only watch brand in the world with all the movements assembled for the second time; the other is that Lange is the only one in the world. A watch brand with a movement that ‘does not knock’.

 Let me say the first item. The so-called secondary assembly is Lange’s watchmaking. When the movement is first assembled, it will test the movements of the movement and hundreds of parts for smooth operation, although these parts are assembled before assembly. It is already flawless, but after the first assembly and testing, no matter how careful, each part will inevitably encounter slight scratches or infiltration of fine dust during the adjustment process. At this time, the watchmaker will completely disassemble and clean all the assembled movements. After cleaning, many components will be decorated, carved and polished with traditional techniques. During the second assembly process, each movement is averaged. The more than 50 oil tanks need to use 8 different lubricants. Finally, the watchmaker will also replace the ordinary screws used in the first assembly with blue steel screws specially burned by Lange. Some people may say that it is difficult to install it again, then let us experience it.

 This is like you seriously assembled a Gundam model, and some of these steps took a lot of effort to install, and just when you want to enjoy the joy of victory, suddenly someone tells you that this model is taken apart immediately , And then re-polished all the parts with polished sandpaper again, after polishing it is better to assemble than the first time, you tell me what was your mentality at that time? If you do n’t want to hit the wall, I’ll say it, and Lange does it. Lange knows that doing so will double or even more time in assembly. Knowing that it would not be possible to double the price, but Lange still did!

 Let me talk about the second item. The so-called movement ‘do not slam the door’ means that Lange will not superimpose different functional modules on the same movement and then put different cases on the same movement like other brands. Paragraph, to put it plainly is to change the soup without changing the medicine. At this point, even Patek Philippe is a little bit ashamed, there are 7 models of a 240 movement, more than 200,000 watches and more than 1 million watches, you will find that the same movement. Of course, this is understandable. Who can not consider the cost in the business community? But there are exceptions to everything, Lange is such a strange, it actually did a watch and a movement.

Let me give you the simplest example. The difference between Lange 1 and Grand Lange 1 is that the case diameter is only 2.4 mm different. If you change to another brand, you must increase the case diameter directly (Patida Philippe’s 5119, 5139, 5140 And Rolex’s Day-Data II is the best proof), but Lange is stunned because this 2.4 mm has a separate movement for the Grand Lange 1, and not only the Lange 1 series, the same is true of other series. This is really an admirable move, because in this way, it is equivalent to each movement being personally customized, and its components are not only not shared, but also increase the variety of single components. The decrease in output is completely contrary to the production law of modern manufacturing with fewer types and large output. In addition, due to the large number of parts, its quality control is another project!

 To be honest, my role as a watchmaker and potential consumer with high requirements for watches all feels that Lange is doing a little too much! Its sincerity and honesty make every consumer feel distressed. When I buy it, I feel sorry for Lange, even if I start to worry about its high cost, such small output, how can the profit guarantee this? It has nothing to do with it, so I suggest that Lange’s price should really be 10% to 15% higher than Patek Philippe to be reasonable.

 Having said so much, this is just a microcosm of Lange’s touching. Let us tell from the specific models. Since the title is a shopping guide, it is natural to recommend some relatively approachable and easy to buy. Watch, so we do n’t talk about limited and super complicated today. I guarantee that these ordinary watches are enough to make your heart beat faster at night. Let’s start with Lange 1.
Lange 1 series
 
 The Lange 1 series is one of the four timepieces first introduced by Lange after returning to the table in 1994. The biggest feature of this series is the eccentric design and large calendar display. You must know that it is the first mature technology in the world. The big calendar watch, when it appeared, immediately caused a stir in the watchmaking world. Lange 1 is the only series in all Lange series that adopts eccentric time display layout. The chronograph dial, small second dial, and large calendar are mutually necessary and indispensable. Its position is exactly a standard isosceles triangle. The overall looks comfortable and relaxed, because the series is extremely distinctive and highly recognizable, so many people think that only Lange 1 is Lange, so Lange 1 series has always been Lange’s most mainstream and most popular Watch series.
Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase
 
 There are currently 9 watches in the Lange1 series. Aside from those super complicated watches, I think there are two watches worth recommending. The first watch I mentioned was called Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase. This watch is a new version of SIHH this year. The reason why it is recommended is because it is very good in line with the trend. We noticed that all watches in the Lange 1 series They are not matched with blue steel hands, but all use the same material as the case. Although this is very noble, it will also cause another problem: the color is monotonous, and it always feels a bit less, so Lange added it. After the moon phase, we found out that it was the appearance of this smear that instantly gave a vitality to the dial.

 The previous Lange 1 moon phase watch had a diameter of 38.5 millimeters. The moon phase disc and the small second disc were placed together. This new model not only expands the case diameter to 40 millimeters, but also puts the moon phase at the most. On the eye-catching main dial, this oversized moon phase disk with a diameter of 14.3 millimeters is a perfect match with the large calendar. The L095.3 caliber on this watch is a moon phase version of the custom-made movement for the large Lange 1. Looking at all the Lange movements, only the Lange 1 movement has the most beautiful three-quarter plywood in the world. We take a closer look at the striped seams between the two cover plates and the main plywood. The fusion is so seamless that People can’t help crying after watching it!
Lange 1 Time Zone

 The other watch I recommend is the Lange 1 Time Zone. This watch can be said to be the most practical watch in this series. Generally speaking, more than 90% of Lange watch owners should be a standard trapeze, so one This World Time watch naturally becomes the ideal partner for travel. Usually, people will be used to the main dial to display the destination time, and the dial to display the departure time, so many people landed the aircraft, the first one The thing is to adjust the watch. It is tedious to exchange the time of the two dials, but this watch is very user-friendly. Although the two dials are different in size, they do not interfere with each other, even if you stay at the destination for a long time. To intermodulate, as for the calendar, you can simply rely on the dual day and night display for simple calculations.

 The material of this watch I recommend to choose the platinum model, which not only looks more low-key and elegant, but the key is that the platinum model is equipped with luminous hands, which is very important for a world time watch. This watch is equipped with the L031.1 movement. Although it is manually wound, its 72-hour power reserve and power reserve instructions will never worry about the watch’s stall. The most important thing is that the movement has a hand-carved middle wheel plywood, which should be considered as an additional benefit. .
 In this episode, we mainly introduce some unique techniques of Lange 1 series and Lange. In the next episode, I will continue to introduce you to the remaining several series and more special features of Lange, so stay tuned … (text / picture wrist) Watch House Mao Zhuang)