Month: September 2014

What Kind Of Watch Is Suitable For Crowding The Subway?

On September 17, 1755, the 24-year-old watchmaker Jean-Marc Vacheron signed his first apprenticeship contract. The contract, now in the museum in Geneva, Switzerland, is regarded as the birth certificate of the Vacheron Constantin brand, which has made Vacheron Constantin the longest-running watch factory since its establishment. As a brand with deep history, Vacheron Constantin has written a book called ‘The World of Vacheron Constantin Geneve’. It contains a detailed record of Vacheron Constantin’s timepieces in the first half of the 20th century. In this era of change from pocket watches to watches, a lot of interesting works appeared. A peacock jewellery pocket watch produced in 1919, set with diamonds and gemstones throughout the body, you can see the pointer after opening the screen. Vacheron Constantin made double retrograde pocket watches for the Thai market in 1930, with the arm as the pointer. 1930 Chinese character dial for the Chinese market. 1936 Vacheron Constantin’s time-angle watch for flight. The Spanish giant found a three-minute perpetual calendar watch customized by Vacheron Constantin in 1936. The special place is the three-question starter lever in the case Right, not the usual left. To pay tribute to Vacheron Constantin’s uninterrupted creativity since its establishment in 1755, the brand created the Historiques historical masterpiece series in 2007. This series reinterprets the brand’s masterpieces in a modern way, witnessing the brand’s long historical tradition. A watch I shared with you today is the Historiques American 1921 from Historiques historical masterpiece series. At first glance, I think many cousins ​​will find it different. Its crown for time adjustment and winding is not in the usual three o’clock position, but is placed in the upper right corner of the case. At the same time, the dial is not straight, but inclined 45 ° to the right. Is the corner pin of this watch broken? Causing the dial to shift? In fact, this is not a broken watch, but a special design by Vacheron Constantin. In 1919, Vacheron Constantin secretly introduced this unique pillow watch for the US market. In the early version introduced in 1919, the crown was in the upper left corner of the case, and the same type was produced in 1921, but the position of the crown was moved to the upper right corner. The number of original antique watches is extremely rare, only 19 pieces. The modern replica is based on the shape of 1921, so it was named ‘Historiques American 1921’. The special tilted position of the dial allows the wearer to read the time more accurately while driving the car. When we were driving, we held our hands on the steering wheel, and the regular watch dial was not directly facing the face. In order to read the time, it is necessary to turn the wrist, and may even cause subconscious movements to move the hand away from the steering wheel. These actions are very dangerous when driving a car. So Vacheron Constantin designed this unique pillow watch to tilt the dial by 45 °. In this way, when we hold our hands on the steering wheel, although the watch is crooked, the dial is just facing the human face, and it is very convenient to watch the time. Because it is used while driving, it is also called ‘Driver watch’ in the workshop. In order to fit the breath of this ‘Driver watch’ driver watch, Vacheron Constantin still uses a manual winding mechanical movement for the modern replica. Although the functions are not complicated, the engraved Geneva mark can be clearly seen through the sapphire caseback. The left is an eagle and the right is a key. Of the 20 million timepieces produced in Switzerland each year, only 24,000 are successfully certified by the Geneva Seal. A watch engraved with the Geneva Seal guarantees the assembly and adjustment of its mechanical movement in the Canton of Geneva. Finishing on simultaneous movement parts can significantly reduce friction and ensure the durability of mechanical operations. A movement engraved with the Geneva mark requires 30% to 40% extra working time to meet stringent certification requirements. In the 19th century, the timepieces produced in the Geneva area of ​​Switzerland were known for their excellent quality. Some mediocre clocks counterfeit Geneva watches for higher profits. The Geneva Legislature (Grand Conseil de la République) and the Canton of Geneva promulgated a statute on November 6, 1886 that constituted the “Poinçon de Genève” imprint of Geneva. It also specified the quality standards in detail and its scope of validity was strictly limited to Movement assembled in Canton of Geneva. Therefore, in order to obtain the Geneva seal, two conditions must be met. The first is that the movement and watch production meet the standards of the Geneva mark. The second is that the movement and watch are assembled locally in the Canton of Geneva. In other words, the launch of the Geneva Seal was, on the one hand, a fight against low-quality counterfeiting, and on the other hand, the protectionism of the local government in Geneva. At first, the Geneva mark was only related to the manufacture of the movement. These standards have been revised as the industry has evolved. By 2011, it is no longer a high-quality certification that applies only to the movement, but also to the entire watch, including the case. The improved Geneva seal takes into account the external components of the watch, especially the parts that connect the movement to the case, such as the case assembly process, the strap, and the screws that connect the case edge. All components are produced and retouched in accordance with the Geneva Seal Standard. ‘A self-produced movement is not necessarily a good movement, and a good movement is not necessarily limited to a self-produced movement.’ If you switch to the Geneva mark, you will conclude that ‘a movement without a Geneva mark is not necessarily a bad movement, but a movement with a Geneva mark is not bad.’ Of course, except when driving, you can wear this Vacheron Constantin’s ‘Driver watch’ driver watch. The same applies when we ride bicycles and commute to work. —END —